Stand in Place du Martroi,as the square opens wide under soft evening light. Classical façades rise on either side, their ground-floor arcades sheltering shops. Cobblestones stretch forward, tram rails glinting, cars and bikes tucked neatly along the edges.
Place du Martroi
At the centre stands the bronze figure of Joan of Arc on horseback, arm raised, forever pointing the way.
Rue Jeanne d'Arc
Behind her the streets pull the eye toward the twin towers of Sainte-Croix Cathedral, glowing gold against a pale sky. Ukrainian and French flags hang from the balconies, catching the last light.
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