Taken in Touraine: Loches – la Cité Royale de Loches skyline.

Loches, nestled in the heart of southern Touraine along the gentle Indre River, is one of those places where history feels alive and layered. Just 42 km southeast of Tours, this "Ville d'Art et d'Histoire" and certified "Plus Beau Détour de France" has preserved its medieval soul better than most. Perched on a rocky promontory, the Royal City of Loches dominates the landscape: a fortified ensemble born in the 11th century under Foulques Nerra (the fearsome Count of Anjou who built many Loire strongholds), expanded by Plantagenet kings like Henry II and Richard the Lionheart, then reclaimed by Philip II of France in 1204. Later, it became a favored residence for Charles VII, who met Joan of Arc here after her victory at Orléans—she convinced the Dauphin (future king) to head to Reims for coronation.

The town's crown jewels include the massive 37-44m square keep (one of Europe's best-preserved Romanesque donjons), the Logis Royal (Renaissance dwelling with ties to Agnès Sorel, Charles VII's influential favorite—her exquisite alabaster tomb rests in the nearby Collégiale Saint-Ours), underground passages, towers, and the polychrome portal of the 11th-12th century collegiate church Saint-Ours (famous for its two unusual octagonal "dubes" domes and finely sculpted Romanesque details).

In this photo, captured on a clear Winter's day, it rises dramatically against the blue sky: the twin spires of Saint-Ours Collegiate Church take center stage, flanked by the château's towers and rooftops cascading down the hillside in pale stone tiers. It's a classic Touraine panorama, medieval grandeur softened by the intimate scale of the town.

Winter brings its own magic here: crisper air, fewer crowds than summer, golden late-afternoon light that warms the stone, and the first signs of renewal (buds on those weeping willows, perhaps early blooms in the royal gardens). Loches feels peaceful yet alive—perfect for unhurried exploration.

Travel Tip: For the best terrace or viewpoint moments in Touraine, head up to the romantic gardens near the Logis Royal for sweeping views over the town and countryside (some spots even overlook the Indre valley). In Loches itself, claim an outdoor table at a café near Place de l'Hôtel de Ville or along the quieter streets for people-watching with a glass of local Touraine wine. Pair your visit with the Wednesday or Saturday market (fresh produce, cheeses, and Chinon-area wines), then wander the cobbled old town or climb to the keep for HistoPad-guided virtual tours.

Bon jeudi dans la Touraine.

“In Touraine, even the silence tells a story.”

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Part of the “Taken in Touraine” Series

Every Thursday, we pause somewhere in Touraine — a village, a vineyard, or a quiet riverside — to capture the spirit of this timeless Loire region.

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Wednesday for windows - La Maison de la Magie in Blois.

One of our favourite sets of windows in the Loire Valley can be found at the remarkable Maison de la Magie Robert-Houdin in Blois.

Located directly across from the courtyard of the magnificent Château Royal de Blois, this unusual building surprises visitors every half hour when several large golden dragon heads suddenly emerge from the windows and balconies. The animated display is playful, theatrical, and perfectly suited to the museum’s magical theme.

The museum is dedicated to the famous 19th-century illusionist Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, widely considered the father of modern magic. Born in Blois, he revolutionized stage magic and inspired many performers who followed.

The façade itself becomes part of the show. At scheduled times the dragon heads extend dramatically from the windows as if the building itself were alive—an unexpected and entertaining spectacle in the historic heart of the city.

Location: Opposite the courtyard of the Château Royal de Blois, Blois, Loire Valley

If you visit Blois, try to time your walk through the square so you can see the dragons appear—it’s a fun moment that delights both children and adults.

Nearby: Just steps away is the beautiful Château Royal de Blois, one of the most historically significant castles in the Loire Valley, once home to several French kings.

Bon mercredi dans la vallée de la Loire !

 

“Through every window, the Loire breathes — calm, patient, and quietly luminous.”

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Part of the “Windows of the Loire” Series

Each Wednesday, we share a glimpse of the Loire Valley through its windows — small frames of everyday beauty and quiet reflection.

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Towns & Villages: Blois and its layers of history.

This is a favourite view in Blois's historic core, on Rue du Puits Châtel, near the cathedral and the château district. The half-timbered building is part of the preserved medieval quarter, while the cathedral (built 1678–1697 on older foundations) anchors the skyline with its tall bell tower and dome.

A reminder: some Loire towns are best seen in their small details — a timbered corner, a cathedral tower in the background, the quiet layers of history.

Bon mardi dans la vallée de la Loire !

“Every town and village in the Loire Valley tells its story gently — in rooftops, stonework and narrow streets.”

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Part of the “Towns & Villages of the Loire” Series

Each Tuesday, we visit one of the Loire Valley's towns or villages of the Loire Valley — their streets, stories, and quiet beauty.

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Monday's chateau - Château de Montreuil-Bellay.

Château de Montreuil-Bellay (Maine-et-Loire) dominates the hill above the village of the same name.

From this view, the château's towers and walls stand out against the sky, with its conical roofs, stone battlements, and chimneys clearly visible. The village spreads below with slate roofs and stone houses clustered at the base of the hill.

The château dates back to the 11th century as a fortress, rebuilt in the 15th century by the Harcourt family, and later modified during the Renaissance. It remains privately owned but is open to visitors for tours of the interiors, ramparts, and gardens.

A reminder: many châteaux are best seen from below, rising above the village, simple in outline, full of history.

Bon lundi...

“Each château tells a story — of kings, of artists, and of the dream of France itself.”

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Part of the “Châteaux of the Loire” Series

Every Monday, we explore one of the Loire Valley’s legendary châteaux — from royal residences to riverside retreats — each revealing a different chapter of the region’s story.

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Mon banc dominical /My Sunday Bench: Rose Garden in Descartes

A bench framed by a bare rose arbor.

The bench sits in the rose garden in Descartes, behind a metal arch covered in dormant rose canes, the winter light is soft through the branches.

This small public garden is a quiet spot in the town, close to the center and the birthplace of René Descartes. The arbor and bench offer a simple place to sit, especially in the off-season when the roses are pruned and the space is calm.

A reminder: the best benches are often the ones in small town gardens — simple, sturdy, and full of quiet presence.

Bon dimanche à tous ! Have a peaceful day, everyone

“On Sundays, the Loire speaks softly — and you have time to listen.”

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Part of the “Mon banc dominical” Series

Each Sunday, we share a quiet bench somewhere in the Loire — a small reminder that peace is often found where you simply stop to notice it.

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On the Streets of Touraine: Rue du Four Banal, La Guerche.

Rue du Four Banal runs through La Guerche in Southern Touraine from where you enter the village from the D750 road until you reach the bridge over the river Creuse when it become Route du Pont.

As you approach the bridge the street features a half-timbered house along with tuffeau stone facades on one side and the chateau on the other.

This is a fairly typical small-town street in Touraine, although they do not all have a chateau, with a name recalls the communal bread oven (four banal) that once served the village.

A reminder: Touraine streets are often best when they stay simple, a short walk, a few old houses, and the quiet life of the village.

Bon samedi dans la Touraine !

“The streets here don’t hurry. They simply invite you to walk, to notice, to belong.”

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Part of the “On the Streets of the Loire” Series

Each Saturday, we stroll through the lanes and cobbles of Loire towns and villages — places where every step feels like a story.

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Loire !