What brings people to the Loire Valley?

Its not just the chateaux...

 ..there's the blue skies and sunflowers.

A walk around the gardens at Villandry in the Loire Valley

The gardens at Chateau de Villandry here in the Loire valley are one of the 'must see' visits of any trip to this beautiful part of France. Split on three levels, the ornamental garden, the water garden and the kitchen garden.The gardens change with the seasons... here a picture is certainly worth a thousand words...

Even more...the Royal Lodgings.

Visiting the Chateau at Loches combined with the Dungeons must be one of the best 'tickets' in the Loire Valley at only 7.50 euros (children under 12 free). Add to this the fact that you can visit the free 'house museum' of the painter Emmanuel Lansyer on the way and you have an excellent value-for-money day out.

The chateau or 'Royal lodgings' sit really well into the landscape of this medieval town - it was after all where it all began. There has been a fortification on this site since the Romans built the first one in the third century. Situated to the north of the citadel, the  least exposed to attacks, it was used as the residence of the King and his court when they were passing through the town or staying clear of their enemies in and around Paris.. Two buildings dating from different periods sit side by side, the south-east part, built against the round tower called the Agnes Sorel tower was built at the end of the 14th century. Its built-in turrets and its machicolations are reminiscent of military architecture.

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Of what you see today, only the watchtower,or Agnes Sorel tower, (centre) is earlier than 14th century when it was annexed to the great hall and 'Royal Chamber' - which is what you see below.

I often think this building is the opposite of the 'Tardis' in that when you look up from the gardens on the other side of the river Indre it looks quite large but when you visit it feels really quite compact.

The dogs sitting on the walls of the entrance stairs recall the favourite pastime of  its royal residents who would hunt in their well stocked hunting estates close by.

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 It was in the great hall (right), in June 1429, Joan of Arc, on her way back from Orleans, came to find Charles VII and convinced him to go to Reims in order to be crowned.The castle would become a favourite residence of Charles VII who gave it to his mistress, Agnes Sorel as her residence. Agnes is recognised as the first official royal mistress. It would be converted for use as a state prison by his son, Louis XI  who had lived there as a child but preferred the chateau at Amboise as a residence -- spoilt for choice really.

The entrance to the oratory of Anne of Brittany*,on the right of the picture, is actually part of the citadel wall. The tower in the background is 'La Tour Saint-Antoine' which served as the town belfry. It rises to 52 meters. Built between 1529 and 1575, it is apparently the only bell tower of  Renaissance design in Touraine. * You can read more about Anne, Agnes and Joan here

A good view of this and the rooftops of the town can be had from the terrace.

More on Loches - the keep and dungeon...

The keep at the 'Donjon' at Loches was one of thirteen such towers built at the beginning of the 11th century by Foulques Nerra the Count d'Anjou . The square tower is 36 metres high and the fact that it is still standing today is testament to just how well it was built. Although today, what you see from the outside is virtually all that remains as the floors and roof have been lost to time.

 From inside you easily make out the different floor levels and the fireplaces serving them.The ground floor of the tower would have been used as a store the first floor would have housed the 'grande salle' or great hall which would have been used as a reception and entertaining room. The other levels would have been the private residence of whoever was occupying the fortress as the time.The top level wouold also have been where they would retreat in less peaceful times.There is a walkway that takes you up the interior of the walls, not for the faint-hearted, which allows access to the top of the tower. Once you chase off the current residents you can take advantage of the great views from the top platform of the surrounding area,

Views of the town itself... 

of St.Ours church...

and further on to the neighbouring town of  Beaulieu-les-Loches,it is well worth making the climb!

Gardens at Loches...

Continuing our tour of Loches in Southern Touraine the public gardens are worth a visit if you are visiting the town. The local authorities in France take great pride in their public places and Loches is no exception. The planting and landscaping concentrates on local  plants and flowers.You also get the added benefit of  great views of  its royal lodgings dungeon and church.

The gardens can be accessed by either leaving the centre of town via the Porte des Cordeliers and crossing the river Indre before turning right after a short walk or by parking at Place Quintefol at the other side of the  gardens again by the river Indre.

The gardens are a good mix of trees, shrubs and flowers with some additional attractive features such as the  bandstand. It Is delightful any time of year.

Looking back towards the gates.

Looking up at the dungeons from the gardens.

 We would suggest you make time to visit these lovely gardens - if you take the kids they are also catered for with a small play park in the corner of the gardens.